Tony led the 6th pitch up a broken face and through a little notch and then left on nice cracks. The fifth pitch started with another interesting move right off the belay, and then up an arching corner with a thin finger crack under the lip and finished with a really cool move up and over the lip and up ~30' of face/slab. Intermittent finger cracks led up for a full pitch between a corner and a huge freestanding horn. The 4th pitch started with an interesting leftward step across a slab into more cracks. I traversed on slabs left around the roof and launched up an incredible corner with an off-fingers crack.steep, with a nice bulge, this led to some wild stemming moves and finished with a leftward move into a seam and grooves, a full 60m pitch at 5.10+ Tony led the second pitch which climbed a thin crack and a slab up and right, right up to below the roof. The first pitch was nice hand cracks and a corner that led up to slabs below the roof We finally found a crack and corner sysem with solid granite and started up. The face has a large wave like roof about a pitch up and we had thought that the line would go to the left of the roof. When we got to the base of the face we wandered around looking for a line with climbable rock. We scrambled up the gully which was mostly shittly kitty litter and big loose blocks.fun funĪs we approached the face we were wondering if the rock would improve at all We traversed right below the spires and started up the gully below Pernod Spire We left the car at about 6am and quickly made our way up to the bench below the spires. Tony and I climbed a new route on Pernod Spire, the tallest of the Wine Spires near Washington Pass. Climb: Pernod Spire -Direct West Face, III-IV 5.10+
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March 2023
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